Materials and process
I am a perfectionist, I only use the best quality construction methods and materials in my furniture, keepsakes, and art.
I strive to make items intended to last for generations.
Resin Products
Alumilite Clear Slow (Polyurethane) Resin for colored and clear items.
Various mica powders to create the colors in the resin.
Cactus Juice Stabilizing Resin for stabilizing wood burl (turntex.com).
Bottle Stoppers from nilesbottlestoppers.com, FDA compliant materials, made in the USA.
High quality automotive Carnauba wax to add a little bit of UV and scratch protection.
Petrified wood from Wyoming.
Various species of wood for the items with bases.
Furniture and Wood Products
I tediously hand select every board I purchase, sometimes pulling out dozens of boards to find the one or two with the exact properties I desire.
I exclusively use Titebond III wood glue, in multiple tests it always comes out on top as the strongest wood glue on the market.
Items that are veneered are done almost exclusively with veneer I cut in my shop; it is much thicker (1/16-3/32”) than commercially sourced (1/40”) veneer which means if ever damaged it likely can be resurfaced and refinished.
Veneering is done with epoxy or plastic resin glue, not wood glue, using a vacuum bag.
I almost entirely use traditional joinery methods like mortise and tenon. Rarely if ever do I use mechanical fasteners for joints or structural items. About the only place you’ll see screws used is when attaching sub-assemblies to mitigate wood movement such as attaching a top to a base.
I use a number of different finishes depending on the item I am creating such as polyurethane, various types of oil, varnish and shellac.